Embracing Terroir in Spanish Cuisine
“The voice that chefs have today gives us the opportunity to raise awareness, to teach how important it is to care for what nature gives us, and to make people understand its value.”
With this powerful statement, Begoña Rodrigo—native Valencian, chef, and owner of the renowned restaurant La Salita in Valencia—emphasizes the profound responsibility that chefs bear in preserving and protecting the land. For her, “the land and its preservation are an essential responsibility that chefs hold today.”
In an era where sustainability is no longer a mere trend but a necessity, chefs are at the forefront of a movement that merges gastronomy with environmental stewardship. Their commitment not only helps protect ecosystems but also enhances the culinary identity of their regions, showcasing the unique flavors and ingredients that local environments provide.


Terroir: The Foundation of Spanish Cuisine
In Spain, the concept of terroir—the connection between the land, its produce, and its culinary identity—is deeply ingrained in its gastronomic tradition. From the sun-soaked fields of Valencia to the marine ecosystems of Cádiz, terroir is celebrated as the soul of Spanish cuisine.
To delve deeper into the importance of terroir, we spoke with two celebrated Spanish chefs who have built their culinary philosophies around a deep respect for their local roots:
- Ángel León, famously known as The Chef of the Sea, from the three-Michelin-starred Aponiente in El Puerto de Santa María (Cádiz).
- Begoña Rodrigo, chef-owner of La Salita in Valencia, whose innovative and sustainable approach to cooking honors her homeland’s bounty.


Ángel León: A Synergy with the Sea
For Ángel León, the land is more than a source of ingredients; it’s the lifeblood of his cuisine. “The land is everything, especially here at Aponiente, where we observe everything around us 24 hours a day. We don’t just study the marine environment but also the marshes, the salt flats, and the entire ecosystem with which Aponiente is naturally connected in the Bay of Cádiz,” he shares.
His culinary vision is intrinsically tied to the sea, the salt marshes, and the surrounding environment. At Aponiente, his team doesn’t merely work with marine ingredients—they immerse themselves in the ecosystem, studying its rhythms and translating them into groundbreaking dishes. His work goes beyond the plate, serving as a testament to the delicate balance between nature and gastronomy.


Begoña Rodrigo: A Deep Connection to Valencia
For Begoña Rodrigo, terroir is the thread that weaves her culinary narrative. “Terroir is the love for your hometown, your environment, and the respect for everything that allows you to identify with your roots,” she explains. “It’s what gives personality to what you do; it inspires you to be unique and authentic.”
At La Salita, Rodrigo collaborates closely with local farmers, crafting menus that are entirely dictated by the land’s seasonal offerings. “Terroir guides our menu 100%. We are in direct contact with the farmers, and based on what they offer us, that is what we cook,” she says. This approach not only ensures the freshest ingredients but also fosters a symbiotic relationship between chef and producer.

Tools for Stewardship
Both chefs agree that their role extends beyond cooking. By embracing sustainable practices and advocating for terroir, they educate diners about the value of local ecosystems. This responsibility also calls for investment in tools and techniques that amplify their efforts:
- Innovative Sustainability: León’s work at Aponiente includes groundbreaking initiatives like creating seafood-based products from underutilized species and harnessing marine plankton as a culinary ingredient.
- Collaborative Farming: Rodrigo’s direct relationships with farmers emphasize a return to traditional agricultural practices that prioritize soil health and biodiversity.

The Role of Chefs as Custodians
From the marine riches of Cádiz to the fertile fields of Valencia, chefs like Ángel León and Begoña Rodrigo embody the spirit of terroir. They understand that their work is not just about creating memorable dishes but also about preserving the natural world that makes such cuisine possible.
Their philosophies align in advocating for a cuisine that respects the environment, celebrates local traditions, and fosters sustainability. “As a chef, along with the restaurant’s crew and our entire kitchen, we are fully committed to that natural and synergistic connection with the land,” León states, echoing Rodrigo’s sentiment that chefs hold a profound responsibility to honor their roots.
Terroir: A Legacy to Protect
For these chefs, terroir is not just a concept; it’s a way of life. It’s the essence of what it means to be a chef in a world where gastronomy and sustainability must go hand in hand. Their dedication to their land, their ingredients, and their communities highlights the importance of preserving these connections for future generations.
In their hands, food becomes more than sustenance—it transforms into a celebration of the earth, a call to action for environmental care, and a story of the land that sustains us all. From Cádiz to Valencia, these chefs remind us that terroir is not just about taste—it’s about respect, stewardship, and legacy.
Instagram: @angel_leon_aponiente @aponiente_angel_leon
Restaurant website: https://www.aponiente.com/en/
Restaurant Address: Calle Francisco Cossi Ochoa, s/n, El Puerto de Santa María, Spain 11500
Instagram: @ucancallmebego @lasalitarestaurante
Restaurant website: https://www.anarkiagroup.com/salita-eng
Restaurant Address: Pedro III el grande , nº11, Valencia 46005