RENÉ FRANK, pastry chef, chef, and owner of CODA in Berlin, applies the techniques of haute pâtisserie to a full tasting menu, focusing on the natural sweetness of vegetables and the balance between umami, savory, and acidity. Born in 1984 in Wangen im Allgäu, Germany, he began his career as junior pastry chef at Zirbelstube in Stuttgart at the age of 22. He then gained international experience at leading restaurants in Spain, Switzerland, France, and Japan. From 2010 to 2016, he was head pastry chef at La Vie in Osnabrück, before opening CODA in 2016.
The Best Chef: So, let’s start from the beginning. When did the idea for Coda come to life, and how did it develop into what it is today?
René Frank: Coda started almost a decade ago as a very casual dessert bar with à la carte desserts, without a clear direction at the beginning. Over time, it evolved into a fine dining restaurant where today we serve around 15 courses that can’t really be categorized. They’re something in between desserts and savory dishes. Coda has become a very innovative concept of fine dining.
The Best Chef: Introducing a restaurant based on desserts must have been challenging. How did people react at the beginning?
René Frank: At first it was more of a vision than a concept. My goal was to bring desserts to the same level as savory dishes. We banned all industrial and processed ingredients—no white sugar, no powders, no stabilizers. We even make our own chocolates and work only with seasonal, fresh ingredients. My background is as a chef, so for me it was always about working with produce, not products from a bag. That’s how Coda grew into an experience that doesn’t fit into a category.
The Best Chef: Why Berlin? How did the city shape the project?
René Frank: Berlin gave us the perfect platform to create something that didn’t exist before. When we started, it wasn’t easy to find supporters, but my business partners Julia and Oliver believed in the vision. Berlin’s openness to innovation and curiosity from locals and tourists alike really influenced the organic development of Coda.
The Best Chef: Can you tell us a bit about your background before Coda? How did you move into pastry?
René Frank: I trained as a chef and wanted to understand every aspect of cooking, including pastry. In 2009 I joined Thomas Bühner’s restaurant, La Vie, as a pastry chef. During my six years there we earned a third star. That period gave me the experience and confidence to create my own vision. Initially, I wanted to open a casual dessert place, but that evolved into Coda as it is today.
The Best Chef: Next year marks Coda’s 10th anniversary. Looking back, what stands out most to you, and how do you see the future?
René Frank: I’m very grateful for these nine years—it taught me to believe in my dreams, to stay true to myself, and to create something unique. We’ve achieved a lot: two Michelin stars, recognition as Best Pastry Chef, and much more. Looking ahead, Coda will never fully “grow up” because there’s no reference point. It’s always been an open vision, not just a concept. The future is about defining what we do, maybe even creating a new category. Our dishes are not desserts, not savory—we call them “non-binary dishes.”
The Best Chef: You’ve described Coda as “bean to plate.” What role does chocolate play in your work?
René Frank: Chocolate has always been industrial, but today it’s shifting toward artisan, like bread once did. At Coda we treat chocolate as produce, not product. We roast cocoa beans ourselves and adapt the roast to each dish. That’s why we say “bean to plate,” not “bean to bar.” It’s about questioning where ingredients come from and treating chocolate with the same respect as meat, eggs, or vegetables.
Personal Instagram: www.instagram.com/rene.frank.coda/
Restaurant Instagram: www.instagram.com/codaberlin/
Restaurant address: CODA Friedelstraße 47, 12047 Berlin, Germany
